Does Vitamin C live up to the hype?

The powerhouse antioxidant is praised for its ability to fight everything from hyperpigmentation to signs of aging, but does it work for every skin type? Plus, how to make the right product choice for your skin.

About 10 years ago, Tropicana put out an ad with the brilliant slogan, “We put the good in good morning”. Well, turns out the marketing team at Tropicana was on to something. Not about their sugary, processed beverage, but about a dose of good ol’ Vitamin C in the morning.

In the world of skincare, few ingredients have a rep like vitamin C (a.k.a. ascorbic acid). Though I’ve recently seen some online backlash against it, let’s not get it twisted—it is one of the most well-researched ingredients with multiple benefits against hyperpigmentation and aging. For the price of one active ingredient, you’re getting antioxidant properties, brightening, and collagen stimulation. That’s one heck a good deal, if you ask me.

But like most skincare superheroes, there’s a catch—ascorbic acid is notoriously difficult to formulate with, becomes unstable when exposed to light and air, and can be sensitizing to some skin types. More confusing is the fact that there seem to be a few other actives also calling themselves vitamin C (these are usually vitamin C derivates, which have their own benefits but aren’t exactly the real stuff). To start with, we’ll focus on the 3 main things you need to know: Is vitamin C right for you, the difference between pure vitamin C and its derivates, and which products are worth the hype.

You may need vitamin C if you:

• Suffer from hyperpigmentation: Vitamin C can help fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars.

• Have dull skin due to environmental damage: As an antioxidant, vitamin C helps neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors. 

• Want additional UV protection: When used in conjunction with SPF, vitamin C provides added protection against UV damage, while its antioxidant properties complement the benefits of other antioxidants in your routine. 

• Are seeing signs of ageing: Vitamin C has also been shown to boost the production of collagen in skin—improving texture, minimizing the appearance of fine lines, and enhancing overall skin health.

If you want one treatment to target all these concerns, then good news, vitamin C might be the answer. Keep in mind though, that being the jack of all trades also means being a master of none. So if you want to specifically address only one or 2 of the issues above, there may be other actives that do it better.

For now though, let’s dive into the different forms of this ingredient, and which one is right for you.  

Ascorbic acid: The Queen C

Ascorbic acid (sometimes listed as L-ascorbic acid on ingredient lists) is the only pure form of vitamin C in skincare. When we talk about clinical studies around the efficacy of vitamin C, we’re talking solely about the ascorbic acid form of vitamin C. IF you can tolerate it, it has been proven to be effective in brightening skin, reducing hyperpigmentation, and stimulating collagen production. However, as stated earlier, it can be irritating to sensitive skin types, and is also unstable and prone to oxidation when exposed to light and air. 

A few things to keep in mind before starting on ascorbic acid:

• Choose stable formulations: The famous Skinceuticals formulation was the first to identify that pairing vitamin C with other antioxidants like vitamin E and ferulic acid, made the formulation more stable. That ingenious pairing has now been replicated by many other brands (at more affordable price points), so ensure you’re choosing a similar formulation from reputable brands that will do the research needed to stabilize vitamin C.

• Store your products properly: Air-tight and opaque packaging is ideal. Make sure to store away from sunlight (I like to keep mine in the fridge), and look out for signs of oxidation. If your product is going from clear to deep yellow, it may be time to throw it out. 

• Start slow: If you're new to ascorbic acid, start with lower concentrations (around 5-10%) to allow your skin to acclimatize gradually. You really don’t need to be using it more than once a day, ideally in the day time when its antioxidant properties can help limit sun damage, and boost the efficacy of your sunscreen.

• ALWAYS use sunscreen: Ascorbic acid can make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation, so it's essential to use sunscreen daily to protect against sun damage.

The Skinimalist’s top picks

GEEK & GORGEOUS C-Glow 15% Vitamin C Serum

My current obsession, the C-Glow serum from Geek & Gorgeous is the closest dupe I’ve found for the famous Skinceutical’s CE Ferulic (not to mention, at a fraction of the price). This no-frills formula combines 15% ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C), with the added antioxidant powers of vitamin E and ferulic acid—both of which help to stabilize this notoriously fussy ingredient.

The only downside is the packaging which leaves it vulnerable to oxidation. Store it in a cool, dark place to extend its shelf life.

MAELOVE The Glow Maker

Another great and relatively inexpensive Skinceuticals dupe is The Glow Maker serum from Maelove. In addition to 15% ascorbic acid, this powerhouse serum is formulated with vitamin E and ferulic acid, as well as soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and aloe. Again, the packaging here isn’t the best (seriously, when are brands going to abandon this dropper style packaging!), but it should suffice if you store it properly and use it up within 2-3 months.

NATURIUM Vitamin C Complex Serum

The Vitamin C Complex Serum from Naturium is one of the few great products in this category that isn’t just a clone of the Skinceuticals formula. If you’re looking for something a little more complex (no pun intended), it combines pure ascorbic acid, with a derivative form of the ingredient (sodium ascorbyl phosphate), along with a host of fruit enzymes and glutathione for additional antioxidant support. Hyaluronic acid and aloe help keep the skin hydrated and calm.

Vitamin C derivatives: More stable, with similar(ish) benefits

Ascorbic acid may be the gold standard, but if your skin finds it too irritating, or you’re a vitamin C noob, a vitamin C derivative might be more up your alley. Evidence around their efficacy is still fairly limited, and they require conversion to ascorbic acid in the skin before they can be effective, so they may be less potent than the real stuff, but they have the advantage of being much less sensitizing. If you’re a beginner or can’t tolerate vitamin C, these derivatives are worth looking into:

• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): Best for oily skin

  Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a stable derivative of vitamin C that offers similar benefits to ascorbic acid but with less risk of irritation or sensitivity. It is water-soluble and effective in regulating sebum production, making it beneficial for oily or clog-prone skin.

• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): Best for sensitive, acne-prone skin

  Another stable and water-soluble derivative of vitamin C, sodium ascorbyl phosphate is just as similar to MAP as its name would suggest, with the added benefit of having anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, which make it effective in calming redness and irritation. 
  

• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD-A): Best overall

  Unlike SAP and MAP, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C, which allows for better penetration into the skin's lipid barrier. Some studies have shown that it may even be more effective than ascorbic acid at penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, with none of the irritation or instability. This has been shown to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles over time.
  

• 3-0 Ethyl Ascorbate (3-0EA): Most versatile

  What makes 3-0 Ethyl Ascorbate unique is that it's stable and soluble in both water and oil, making it more versatile to formulate with. This also allows it to convert to ascorbic acid better than both MAP and SAP in the skin. However, like its fellow vitamin C derivates, so evidence for its efficacy is still limited.  

The Skinimalist’s Top Picks

NUMBUZIN No.5 Vitamin Concentrated Serum

If you’re looking for the brightening effects of Vitamin C, without the sensitivity, Numbuzin’s Vitamin Concetrated Serum is a great option. Formulated with 3-0-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside and a low concentration of ascorbic acid, this serum provides added brightening benefits from ingredients like tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin and niacinamide.

GLOW RECIPE Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum

If your answer to “Which derivate is best for me?” was “all of the above”, look no further than this scrumptious smelling serum from Glow Recipe, formulated with a cocktail of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, 3-0-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It also contains other brightening superstars, tranexamic acid and ferulic acid.

INNISFREE Vitamin C Green Tea Enzyme Brightening Serum

I haven’t been the biggest fan of most products from this brand, but I was pleasantly surprised by this serum that combines the skin-evening power of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid with mild exfoliation from green tea enzyme. Additional powerhouse ingredients like skin-smoothing squalane and lactobacillus ferment, plus brightening niacinamide and glutathione, make this formula even more impressive.

The Skinimalist’s take: Which vitamin C is right for you?

With multiple benefits for those concerned with hyperpigmentation, dull skin and ageing, vitamin C (and especially L-ascorbic acid) is a great choice for most people with normal skin. However, choosing the right Vitamin C can be hard, so here’s my take:

• If you have normal or oily skin that isn’t prone to irritation, reach straight for the ascorbic acid, but start at a lower concentration to be safe. There’s a reason this is the gold standard for pigmented skin.

• If you have more dry or mature skin, and don’t want to deal with the hassle of throwing out half-used and oxidized products, opt for tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate or 3-0 ethyl ascorbate. IMO these are 2 of the best Vitamin C derivatives, with plenty of good formulations to choose from.

• If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, and suffer from redness and irritation when you use any of the above, then choose SAP or MAP for gentler results. Personally, I haven’t seen huge improvements from using these, but they could be great for skin that can’t handle anything stronger.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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