Exfoliating acids: Helping or hurting your acne?

They’re the “gentler”, more effective alternative to physical scrubs, but too much of a good thing could be having the opposite effect on your skin.

One of the first major aha moments (pun absolutely intended) I had on my journey to skinimalism was the realisation that most skincare ingredients, when used in excess, can have the exact opposite effect to the one you desire. Nowhere has this been more apparent to me than with exfoliating acids.

In the vast landscape of skincare ingredients, exfoliating acids—the most common being AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)—have emerged as popular choices for addressing various skin concerns. From exfoliating dead skin cells to unclogging pores and improving skin texture, these acids offer the exfoliating benefits we used to get from physical scrubs, without the side-effects of micro tears.

However, like most things in skincare, more is not necessarily better with exfoliating acids. It is so easy to cross the line into overuse territory—resulting in a damaged skin barrier and having the unintended consequence of dry, textured skin. My (maybe controversial) take is that not all of us need an exfoliating acid in our routines, certainly not multiple kinds, and most definitely not every day. But let’s dig deeper into what these various kinds of exfoliating acids are, and why you may (or may not) want to add them to your routine. 

Understanding exfoliating acids

First things first, not all exfoliating acids are made equal. Most of them work in very different ways, and offer very different results. Let’s start with the most popular ones and what they offer. 

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are water-soluble acids which work by exfoliating the skin's surface, promoting cell turnover, and improving skin texture. There are many different kinds of AHAs in skincare, with the most common ones being glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.

You may need an AHA in your routine if you have:

• Concerns with dull or uneven skin texture: AHAs promote cell turnover, reveal smoother skin, and improve overall radiance.

• Fine lines and wrinkles: Some AHAs stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity, making them beneficial for reducing the signs of aging.

• Dead skin build-up: AHAs can help hydrate the skin by removing dead skin cells and allowing moisturizers to penetrate more effectively.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

BHAs, the most common being salicylic acid, are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deep into the pores. They exfoliate within the pores, unclog them, reduce inflammation, and regulate sebum production.

You may need a BHA in your routine if you have:

• Oily Skin: BHAs regulate sebum production, control shine, and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores

• Acne-prone and congested skin: If you struggle with congestion, blackheads, or recurring breakouts, incorporating BHAs into your routine can help clear out impurities, prevent new blemishes, and promote clearer skin.

Poly-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Unlike AHAs and BHAs, PHAs have larger molecular sizes, which means they penetrate the skin more slowly and gently. This makes them suitable for sensitive skin types and those looking for mild exfoliation without irritation.

You may need a PHA in your routine if you have:

• Sensitive skin: PHAs offer gentle exfoliation, and unlike some AHAs and BHAs that can be drying, PHAs have hydrating properties that help retain moisture in the skin. 

The potential pitfalls of exfoliating acids

At this point, you may be thinking, “Ok, that sounds great, I want these magical exfoliating powers”. But before you dive headfirst into the world of AHAs, BHAs and PHAs let's also talk about the flip side of the coin—the potential pitfalls and what to watch out for when adding them to your skincare routine.

• Skin barrier damage (not to be confused with purging)

  I get it, that baby smooth post exfoliation skin feels so good. But using AHAs, BHAs or PHAs every day can lead to irritation and a compromised skin barrier, which ironically leaves your skin even more vulnerable to acne and breakouts. Some people get this mixed up with purging, but the difference between breakouts from skin barrier damage and purging is that barrier damage will usually be accompanied by dryness, irritation, stinging sensations and/or redness. These are all telltale signs that you need to dial the exfoliation way, way back. Listen to your skin, and learn to read the signs it’s giving you.

• Dryness and flakiness

  If you’re prone to dryness and sensitivity, potent AHAs or BHAs can be your ticket to irritation nation, leaving your skin feeling dehydrated and flaky. This can inadvertently lead to your skin trying to compromise by overproducing oils, leading to breakouts or textured skin (the exact opposite of your desired result).

• Incompatibility with other actives

  Some skincare ingredients don't play well with AHAs or BHAs. For example, combining them with retinol or vitamin C can lead to increased sensitivity or counteract their effectiveness. Check with a skincare professional or do your research to ensure your product combinations are synergistic, not conflicting.

• Sun sensitivity

  AHAs and BHAs can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, making sun protection non-negotiable. This isn’t as much of a problem if you’re religious with the sunscreen, but if you’re someone who gets lazy with the SPF, and is unlikely to apply (and reapply) it every day, you’re risking hyperpigmentation becoming worse, rather than better.

The Skinimalist’s take: Do you need an exfoliating acid?

Exfoliating acids offer a lot of benefits for acne-prone skin, especially when used in moderation. But before you decide to add them to your skincare routine, here are a few things you should ask yourself:

• Are you already using other exfoliating ingredients?: Retinoids, some forms of Vitamin C, and even some fruit enzymes like papaya, pineapple, and pumpkin, all offer exfoliating benefits. If you already use one or more of these in your routine, you may not need an additional exfoliating acid.

• Are AHAs or BHAs hidden in your existing skincare products?: If you read the labels of your cleansers, toners, and serums properly, you may find that one or more of them already contain exfoliating acids like salicylic, glycolic , or lactic acid as secondary ingredients. These can add up in a routine, and lead to over exfoliation without you even realizing it.     

• Do you have sensitive skin and/or a compromised skin barrier?: AHAs, especially glycolic acid, can be harsh for sensitive skin types, leading to redness, dryness, stinging, and peeling. Similarly, BHAs like salicylic acid can cause irritation, particularly if used in high concentrations or on already compromised skin barriers. This could, again, have the unintended consequence of making your skin more acne-prone.

• Which one, how strong, and how often?: Say the answer to all the previous questions was “no”, and you’ve decided that you definitely need an AHA, BHA or PHA, then here’s how to do it:

  • Start low and slow: Milder AHAs like mandelic acid or a low-strength BHA or PHA are the best gateways to the world of exfoliating acids. Look for products with percentages as low as 1-2% to start with. Work your way up to glycolic or lactic acid only if you need to.

  • Don’t mix and match: Do not try and incorporate more than 1 exfoliating acid at a time

  • Frequent isn’t better: I’ve seen so many products recommend daily usage, both day and night, and it truly boggles my mind. You really don’t need to be exfoliating more than twice a week unless your skin gets uncontrollably clogged. Even for extremely oily skin, 3 times a week should be more than enough.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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