Arbutin, Azelaic, Kojic: Battle of the hyperpigmentation heavyweights.

You may have heard of Alpha Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, and Kojic Acid, but do you know how these tyrosinase inhibitors actually work?

I don’t blame you if you zoned out halfway through reading the words “tyrosinase inhibitors”. These little guys could definitely use a catchier name, but bear with me while I attempt to provide a simple explanation of their benefits.

Tyrosinase is an enzyme found in melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin. Melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color, and its overproduction can lead to hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and an uneven skin tone. Tyrosinase inhibitors, as the name suggests, work by obstructing the activity of tyrosinase, and regulating melanin production—resulting in a more balanced and even complexion.

Phew, chemistry lesson over. Still with me, so far? Ok, good. At this point, you may also be wondering: How is that different from what Vitamin C does?

Well, yes, Vitamin C does inhibit tyrosinase production to an extent, but its melanin obstructing properties pale in comparison to ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, and Kojic Acid. The reason Vitamin C is revered above all is because, in addition to reducing hyperpigmentation, it also neutralizes free radicals to protect the skin from environmental damage, and promotes collagen production in skin. It’s a triple threat, like not many other ingredients are, and it happens to be extremely well researched too. So, that begs the question: Who should be reaching for a tyrosinase inhibitor, and which one? Let’s dive in.

You may need a tyrosinase inhibitor if:

• Reducing hyperpigmentation is your primary goal, and you want to target it at the source: Even more so than Vitamin C, tyrosinase inhibitors are able to control melanin production, leaving you with brighter, more radiant skin.

• You suffer from post-inflammatory-hyperpigmentation (PIH), or post-inflammatory-erythema (PIE) If you want to target the dark (PIH) or red (PIE) marks left behind on your skin after inflammation, especially from acne, tyrosinase inhibitors are shown to be much more effective in treating and reducing their appearance.

• You want an additional brightening agent to complement your Vitamin C: Many tyrosinase inhibitors pair well with, and even boost the efficacy of Vitamin C. You might want to consider a formulation that combines the 2 ingredients for even better results (see some examples below).

If you’re dealing with any of these conditions, it might make sense to add a tyrosinase inhibitor into your routine instead of, or even alongside, Vitamin C. But which one is right for you? Here are 3 of my favourites and what they’re great at.  

Which tyrosinase inhibitor is right for you?

Alpha Arbutin: Best overall

Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone—one of the most potent prescription treatments for hyperpigmentation. Hydroquinone is no longer available for OTC use, and has even been banned in some countries because of its potential side effects (whether it’s really as scary is up for debate, but for now, it’s definitely hard to come by). Alpha arbutin, on the other hand is a much gentler and safer form of this ingredient, and has additional antioxidant properties, similar to Vitamin C, making it one of the best and safest choices to start with.

Azelaic Acid: Best for acne-prone skin

My personal favourite, azelaic acid combines its tyrosinase inhibiting abilities with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties to give you one super ingredient that targets both hyperpigmentation and acne. If you want to kill 2 skin concerns with one stone, azelaic acid can be your best friend. One thing to note with azelaic acid is that its efficacy has only been proven at 15% of above—a strength which can only be obtained with a prescription. Most OTC formulations max out at 10%, which may not give you the same level of results.

Kojic Acid: For those who want something stronger

Approach this one with caution. Of all the ingredients on this list, kojic acid has shown the most potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity in clinical studies—even more so than alpha arbutin and on par with hydroquinone. However, as you may have guessed by now, more isn’t always better in skincare. The higher strength also means it can be irritating, especially for people with sensitive skin, which is why it’s only been approved for OTC sale in concentrations of 1% and below. I would opt for this if you suffer from really bad PIH or PIE and nothing else has worked.

The Skinimalist’s Top Picks

Tyrosinase inhibitors are becoming more and more popular in skincare, and most of the products I’ve listed below include more than one in their formulation. These are great if you want the benefit of multiple ingredients without adding multiple steps to your routine.

NATURIUM Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% & Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%

The labels may say ‘Tranexamic Acid’ (another great brightening agent, by the way), but make no mistake, these powerhouse brightening serums are so much more. I prefer the topical formulation for my oily, acne-prone skin, infused with both kojic acid, and licorice root extract (also a tyrosinase inhibitor), bolstered with the brightening power of niacinamide.

If you can tolerate a slightly heavier, moisturiser like formulation, the emulsion may be the way to go. It contains both kojic acid and alpha arbutin, alongside a host of those brightening ingredients.

NATURIUM Azelaic Topical Acid 10% & Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10%

With these 2 products, again, I lean towards the topical formulation because of its lightweight texture. Do note, however, that it’s formulated with an azelaic acid derivative suited for more sensitive skin. Vitamin C, niacinamide and coffee seed extract provide additional brightening firepower here.

The emulsion on the other hand is formulated with 10% pure azelaic acid (the highest OTC concentration you can get), alongside another brightening agent, niacinamide, and a host of hydrating and soothing ingredients, including oat, squalane, and even lactobacillus ferment.

REVIVA LABS Dark Spot Brightening Serum

I’ve said it once, and I’ll say it again. The skincare world is sleeping on this powerhouse serum from Reviva Labs, packed full of an intimidatingly lonh list of brightening ingredients. Niacinamide, glycolic acid, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, vitamin C, resveratrol, bearberry extract, licorice root extract—you name it, it’s got it. It’s one step that could replace multiple in your routine, but definitely start low and slow with something so potent.

COS DE BAHA Azelaic Acid 10 Serum

If you’re looking to start out with a simple, no-frills formulation, this one from Korean brand, Cos De Baha may just be what you’re looking for. 10% azelaic acid in this K-beauty gem is complemented by hydrating and well-tolerated, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. A high concentration of aloe gives it a slightly slimy texture (thought it absorbs quickly into the skin) and helps soothe the skin too.

DR. IDRISS Major Fade Hyper Serum

If you’re lucky enough to live in the U.S., you can get your hands on this award-winning serum from dermatologist turned YouTuber, Dr. Shereene Idriss. Full disclosure, I haven’t had the chance to try it myself but have seen some rave reviews. This super serum gives you the double whammy of both alpha arbutin and kojic acid, alongside skin-brightening, niacinamide.

The Skinimalist’s take: Are tyrosinase inhibitors worth it?

Tyrosinase inhibitors can be a great tool against hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of colour. However, here are a few suggestions on how to mindfully incorporate it into your routine:

• Make sure your skin actually needs an additional brightening agent before reaching for a tyrosinase inhibitor. I started using a tyrosinase inhibitor only after a bad acne flare-up that resulted in a lot of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Before that, I was happy with my daily Vitamin C.

• Once I started using a tyrosinase inhibitor, I also stopped using my Vitamin C for quite a while, so it’s important to consider whether you need both in your routine. If you do, you may prefer to look for a product formulated with both to avoid overloading your routine with products.

• Choose only one tyrosinase inhibiting product to start with, and give it time to take effect before you move on to something else.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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