You think you’re doing everything right, but your hyperpigmentation’s only getting worse—here are a few reasons that could be happening.

Say it with me, ladies and gentlemen: MORE IS NOT BETTER. Now, louder, for the people at the back!

Whatever your skins concerns are, I can tell you (from painful personal experience) that throwing everything at it is not going to work. Let’s take hyperpigmentation. If you’ve tried everything, and I mean EVERYTHING to get rid of it—brightening products, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, Alpha Arbutin…the list goes on—but you’re still not seeing the results you want, or your skin’s even getting worse, the likely reason is that you may just be doing too much!

Many ingredients, even the ones renowned for their abilities to even out your skin tone, could inadvertently be exacerbating hyperpigmentation without you even realizing it, especially if you’re mixing multiple different products together, AND at high concentrations AND doing so frequently. Combining actives together to build a routine takes mindfulness, patience, and a touch of skinimalism. So, keep reading to find out which ingredients could be harming instead of helping your hyperpigmentation.

Understanding Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation occurs when melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin (pigment), become overactive or stimulated. This excess melanin leads to dark spots, patches, or an overall uneven complexion. The most common causes of hyperpigmentation are:

Sun exposure: UV radiation triggers melanin production, leading to sunspots, freckles, and overall sun-induced hyperpigmentation.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): Inflammatory conditions such as acne, eczema, or psoriasis can result in PIH. For skin of colour, especially, even minor irritations can easily lead to the formation of dark spots at the site of the irritation.
Hormonal changes: Pregnancy, hormonal fluctuations, and conditions like melasma can cause hormonally induced hyperpigmentation, typically seen as dark patches on the face.
Age & genetics: Aging skin may develop age spots, while genetic factors can predispose individuals to certain types of hyperpigmentation.

**Ingredients that should be treating hyperpigmentation, but could be making it worse**

Citrus Essential Oils (Bergamot, Lemon, Lime)
While citrus essential oils are often touted for their “natural” Vitamin C content and potential skin brightening properties, they can have the opposite effect if not used properly. These oils contain compounds that can increase sensitivity to sunlight, leading to sunburn and potentially worsening existing hyperpigmentation. To mitigate these effects, avoid using citrus essential oils in the day time or before you go out into direct sunlight.
Harsh Physical Exfoliants
Abrasive physical exfoliants, such as walnut shells, apricot kernels, or rough brushes, can cause micro-tears in the skin and disrupt the skin barrier. This can lead to increased inflammation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and a compromised skin barrier that is more susceptible to pigmentation issues. With the wide availability of more gentle chemical exfoliants, there’s really no reason to continue using harsh physical exfoliants.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Speaking of chemical exfoliants, some of the most well-known AHAs—like glycolic acid and lactic acid—are lauded for their exfoliating and brightening benefits. However, there can be too much of a good thing. High concentrations or frequent usage of these stronger exfoliants can cause irritation and inflammation, especially in skin of colour—triggering or worsening existing hyperpigmentation. Opt for lower strength or gentler exfoliants where possible.
Retinoids
Retinoids, such as retinol and tretinoin, are potent ingredients known for their anti-aging and skin-renewing properties. However, like AHAs, they can also be highly irritating to skin at higher concentrations or if used too frequently. Additionally, without adequate sun protection, retinoid usage can lead to increased sun sensitivity, sunburn, and potential exacerbation of hyperpigmentation, particularly in sun-exposed areas.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone used to be known as the gold standard for hyperpigmentation, but it has become a prescription-only treatment (and is even banned in some countries) because of a side effect known as ochronosis, where blue-black or gray-blue patches of discoloration; it is rare and more commonly seen in patients that use a high concentration of hydroquinone for a long period on large areas of the body.

Harsh Cleansers
Cleansers with sulfates, denatured alcohol or strong AHAs and BHAs, can strip the skin of its natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier—leading to dryness, irritation, and compromised skin that is more susceptible to pigmentation issues.

Lack of Sun Protection
Saving the best for last. It should go without saying that one of the most crucial factors in managing and preventing hyperpigmentation is sun protection. Without daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 or higher, UV exposure can worsen existing pigmentation, cause new dark spots, and counteract the effectiveness of all your other skincare treatments targeting hyperpigmentation.

How to avoid making hyperpigmentation worse

Trust me, I know just how tempting it can be to try every promising skincare ingredient to transform your skin, but if it sounds too good to be true, it most likely is. Instead of looking for short-term results, take a long-term effectiveness approach. This might mean starting low and slow, and then building up to something stronger, or you may realize that your skin doesn’t need anything more at all. Here are a few tips to get started:

Start with fewer products, especially ones that can be sensitizing: Incorporating Retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, and Vitamin C all in the same routine is a recipe for skin inflammation. Start with 1 or 2, and ideally split them up between your morning and evening routines, or even on alternate days, so your skin has some time to recover in between.
Always patch test: Before adding new skincare products into your routine, do patch tests on a small area of your face to check for any adverse reactions or irritation.
Never forget the sunscreen!: Apply (and reapply) a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy or indoor days, to protect your skin from UV damage and worsening of hyperpigmentation.
Choose multi-tasking formulations: Instead of layering on a bunch of different actives which may not have been formulated to work together, choose 1 multi-tasking product that contains multiple hyperpigmentation fighting actives. I’ve listed some of my faves right here, but choose ingredients that work for your skin.

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