Are mineral sunscreens better than chemical sunscreens?

Why there’s STILL so much controversy around chemical sunscreens, plus the pros and cons of both (product recs included).

It’s 2024, and the online world is still raging. The debates on both sides are intense. Misinformation is running rampant. No, I’m not talking about Trump vs Kamala. I’m talking about mineral sunscreens v/s chemical sunscreens.

In one corner, you have the scarily named “chemical” sunscreens, which some claim could be seeping into your bloodstream and even disrupting your hormones. On the other side, you’ve got the much less harmful sounding “mineral” sunscreens. Even the name conjures up images of natural, clean, non-toxic ingredients. Surely “minerals” must be safer for our skin than big bad “chemicals”? As with most things, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. So let me breakdown everything you need to know about chemical and mineral (or physical) sunscreens, along with my personal experience of both.

But before we begin, let me get one major pet peeve out of the way. Despite what the names suggest, mineral sunscreens contain just as many chemicals as chemical sunscreens. We are surrounded by chemicals. Water is a chemical! Salt is a chemical! Sugar is a chemical! Chemicals are not inherently toxic or harmful to us. There’s no need for alarm bells to go off at the mere mention of the word “chemical”. Ok, rant over.

The main difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens

In theory, the key difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens lies in the way they work to protect our skin from sun exposure, and the key ingredients they use to do it.

• Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and transform them into heat, which is then released from the skin. They contain active ingredients like avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octinoxate, which work by sinking into the skin’s top layer to offer protection.

• Mineral sunscreens (also known as physical sunscreens) are supposed to sit on the surface of the skin and act as a shield, reflecting UV rays away. These sunscreens typically use zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide as their main active ingredients, making them a good choice for those with sensitive skin.

The reason I added the “in theory” disclaimer upfront is because the original understanding of mineral sunscreens as a shield was based on those thick, chalky white sunscreens you’d slather all over your back on a beach day. Today, most manufacturers use mincronized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, with particles that are much finer than the ghost makeup of the 90s. These modern forms of the ingredients still reflect UV rays, but they also absorb them, similar to the way chemical sunscreens do.

So in theory, chemicals absorb and minerals reflect. But in reality, chemicals absorb and minerals reflect (but also absorb).

Chemical sunscreens: The good, the bad, and the scary

So, we’ve already debunked the idea that chemical sunscreens are scary because they contain chemicals. Then, is there really anything to be worried about? The answer is a big, resounding…maybe. Let’s start with what I love about chemical sunscreens, and some things that are worth calling out.

Pros:

• Elegant formulations: If your sunscreen is lightweight, easy to apply and goes on like a dream, then odds are you’re using a chemical sunscreen.

• No white cast!: As a woman with skin of colour this is a HUGE deal. I spent my early 20s looking like a character from a Tim Burton movie, and there is absolutely no way I’m going back to that!

• Water/sweat resistant: Making chemical sunscreens a much better option for those who spend a lot of time outdoors or in the water.

Cons:

• They can sometimes sting, especially around the eyes, and especially if you have sensitive skin.

• Absorption time: Chemical sunscreens are believed to take about 20 minutes to fully absorb into the skin and become effective. There is some new research to disprove this, but good to keep in mind nonetheless.

• They may get absorbed into the bloodstream: Now here’s where things get a little scary. A 2019 study by the FDA found that chemicals, like avobenzone and oxybenzone, can be absorbed into the body’s bloodstream and remain there for extended periods of time after a single use. That’s when the alarm bells around chemical sunscreens really started going off—and understandably so. However, in a less publicized follow-up report, the FDA also stated categorically that absorption does not equal risk, and that none of the tested ingredients were deemed unsafe for use in sunscreens. Still, we don’t know enough about the long-term effects of this absorption to say for sure one way or another.

Myth:

• They disrupt hormones: I considered putting this under “cons”, but it’s been so thoroughly debunked that I had to put it in a separate “myth” category. People who claim that chemical sunscreens disrupt your endocrine system rely on studies where rats were actually fed oxybenzone. They concluded it would take a human being approximately 277 years of sunscreen use to achieve the same level of oxybenzone in their system.

My top picks for chemical sunscreens

SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+

K-beauty is famous for formulating elegant, lightweight sunscreens with ingredients that provide additional benefits to the skin. And while I love the ones from Beauty of Joseon, iUNIK and Isntree, my holy grail is the Hyalu-Cica Water Fit Sun Serum from SKIN1004, infused with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica to hydrate and soothe the skin.

PAULA’S CHOICE Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid SPF 50

Another hydrating and lightweight SPF is this one from Paula’s Choice that’s great for normal to oily skin. It’s actually considered a hybrid sunscreen because it has ingredients of both chemical (octinoxate⁠, octisalate⁠, and avobenzone⁠) and mineral (titanium dioxide) sunscreens. To boost its sun-protection, it provides a cocktail of antioxidants, including pomegranate, grape seed, and goji extract. Soothing ingredients like green tea and chamomile keep the skin barrier healthy.

SUPERGOOP! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40

The go-to sunscreen for many women of color, Supergoop!’s Unseen Sunscreen is the only SPF I’ve ever used that comes out clear and colorless right from the tube. Needless to say, there is absolutely no white cast with this beauty, and it gives you a primer like finish that looks great under make-up. It does have some additional skin soothing ingredients, like red algae and meadowfoam seed oil, but the star of the show here is the perfect, poreless finish it leaves behind.

Mineral sunscreens: Why they’re considered a safer alternative

Now that you know why chemical sunscreens have a bad rep (undeservedly so, in my opinion), here’s how mineral sunscreens stack up against them.

Pros:

• Gentle formulations: Mineral sunscreens are relatively less likely to irritate your skin or cause breakouts, making them a much better alternative for those with skin that’s sensitive and/or acne prone.

• FDA approved: The same FDA study which raised concerns about systemic absorption of some sunscreen ingredients, recognized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as “generally safe and effective for use in sunscreens”, and additional data was not requested for them. This could be a huge plus for those who worry about chemical sunscreens being absorbed into the bloodstream.

• Skin benefits: Zinc oxide, especially, provides a lot of benefits beyond sun protection. It’s both anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory, making it a great choice for those with acne-prone skin.

Cons:

• Heavy white cast (even when they claim not to leave any): My skin of color finds it extremely hard to get past this one major con of mineral sunscreens. Some brands are now getting around it by formulating tinted sunscreens, but even then the shade ranges are so limited that it’s hard to find a good match.

• Inelegant formulations: I personally find mineral sunscreens too thick and heavy for my oily, acne-prone skin. They also just sit on your skin (by design), so tend to look blotchy or pill heavily under makeup.

• Not water/sweat resistant: Have you ever gone out for a run, or been at the gym and had white streaks of sweat running across your face? Been there, done that, don’t plan to do it again.

My top picks for mineral sunscreens

COLORSCIENCE Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50

This sunscreen went viral earlier this year for its “tone-adapting” technology that claimed the product would change its tone to blend into your skin’s natural tone (if you’ve seen any videos of sunscreen that comes out white and then, to the shock of the creator, turns tinted as you rub it in to your skin…this is it). And while the “tone-adapting” technology may be a bit of a marketing gimmick, I do think this is absolutely one of the best tinted sunscreens on the market right now. It only comes in 4 shades - fair, medium, tan and deep, so may not be suitable for those with deeper skin tones.

SUPERGOOP! CC Screen 100% Mineral Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 50

When all you do as a brand is sunscreens, then you better do it damn well, and luckily Supergoop! doesn’t disappoint. They have a wide range of 100% mineral sunscreens to choose from, with my favorites being their CC Screen and Zinc Screen. Both are tinted formulations, but the CC Screen comes in 15(!) different shades, which makes it very brown-girl friendly. The Zinc Screen, which I actually feel has a somewhat nicer finish, is only available in one “adaptable” shade which, in my opinion, doesn’t quite work for deeper skin tones.

TORRIDEN Dive in Mild Suncream SPF 50+

As I said above, I’ve found it hard to find a non-tinted mineral sunscreen that leaves absolutely no white cast, but if that’s not an issue for you, then there are some great K-beauty options you may want to include in your routine. Haruharu Wonder, Axis-Y, and Dr. G all do great pure mineral sunscreens, but my rec would be this hydrating formula from Torriden, with 10 kinds of hyaluronic acid.

Final verdict: Are mineral sunscreens better than chemical sunscreens?

Like most things in life and in skincare, the answer isn’t clearcut and depends largely on what your skin needs.

As someone with oily, acne-prone skin of color, who lives in a tropical country where it’s hot and humid all year long, and enjoys being outdoors, the choice is clear (as may have been evidenced by the images above). I own and regularly use all the chemical sunscreens I’ve recommended. The benefits of a chemical sunscreen far outweigh any potential risk, at least for my face. I still use a mineral sunscreen for my body because of the much larger surface area being covered.

However, if you’re someone who’s pregnant or breastfeeding, those risks, however small, are not worth taking. Or if you’re someone with a lighter skin tone, or sensitive, dry skin, those aren’t risks you may even need or want to take. The most important thing to remember is that any sunscreen is better than no sunscreen.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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