Why Azelaic Acid has become a cult favorite for clear skin.

Everything you need to know about the unsung skincare superhero that targets both hyperpigmentation and acne at once.

It seems like every other day, there’s a new skincare superhero in town, but as the saying goes, not all heroes wear capes.

If you’ve been paying attention to online skintellectuals, skinfluencers, and skincare social as a whole, you may have heard azelaic acid lauded for its power to deliver clear and even skin. Turns out, it’s for good reason. Azelaic acid, may not be as hyped as some of the other stalwarts of the skincare world, but it packs a one-two punch—fighting acne and brightening skin, to deliver an improved overall complexion. So let’s talk about how it goes about doing that, and if you need this underrated ingredient in your routine.

Understanding Azelaic Acid

This powerhouse ingredient is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It’s renowned for its multifaceted benefits, making it a versatile solution for various skin concerns.

The Benefits of Azelaic Acid

• Anti-inflammatory properties make Azelaic Acid effective at calming redness, soothing irritated skin, and reducing the inflammation associated with acne breakouts.

• Antibacterial properties can target and inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria on the skin.

• Exfoliates and unclogs pores gently, helping to remove dead skin cells, and prevent the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).

• Reduces hyperpigmentation, especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is a major concern for those with acne-prone skin. Azelaic acid has tyrosinase inhibiting properties that can fade dark spots, acne scars, and uneven skin tone caused by previous breakouts.

• Regulates sebum production, keeping oiliness in check and reducing the likelihood of clogged pores and acne flare-ups.

• Non-irritating and suitable for sensitive skin: Unlike some other acne treatments, azelaic acid is gentle on the skin and rarely causes irritation or dryness, making it a well-tolerated option for many individuals.

If it’s so great, why is it so underrated?

In my opinion, there are a few reasons why azelaic acid continues to lurk in the shadows, and is yet to be embraced by the masses:

• Unproven results for OTC formulas: One of the biggest blockers to broader azelaic acid adoption is the fact that clinical trials for its prowess have only proven its efficacy at 15% or above. Unfortunately, in many countries, that kind of strength is available by prescription only, with most OTC formulations maxing out at 10%. The cost factor involved with getting a prescription product can be a barrier for many people.

• Lack of product options: In addition to its, as yet, unproven efficacy at lower percentages, azelaic acid can also be tricky to formulate with. That means most brands don’t want to come near it, and the options for well-formulated OTC products is fairly limited. This is, however, starting to change now and below I’ve listed some of my own favorites for you to try.

• Master of none: While azelaic acid does a lot of things well, it isn’t hyper-focused on solving any one particular skincare issue. Although it treats both hyperpigmentation and acne—two of the most common skincare concerns—it isn’t the strongest antidote against either, so most people tend to prefer using targeted treatments for each separate issue. In some sense, azelaic acid is a jack of all trades, and a master of none.

The Skinimalist’s take: Why I love Azelaic Acid

Skinimalism is a belief that simpler routines, with fewer, mindfully selected products, can be more effective—and Azelaic Acid can help you do exactly that. I love ingredients that target multiple skincare concerns and allow us to do more with less. For those arguing that Azelaic Acid doesn’t provide the targeted treatment of multiple other actives, I give you exhibit A: Vitamin C.

Similar to Azelaic Acid, Vitamin C is one of the original masters of none, lauded for its multi-faceted approach to targeting hyperpigmentation and stimulating collagen production in the skin. Most of us don’t need separate actives to target each individual concern, when one ingredient can do it all. So if you’re interested in trying out this new treatment, here are some of my top recs.

Skinimalist’s Top Picks

NATURIUM Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10%

This super serum is formulated with 10% azelaic acid (the highest OTC concentration you can get), alongside another brightening agent, niacinamide, and a host of hydrating and soothing ingredients, including oat, squalane, and even lactobacillus ferment.

COS DE BAHA Azelaic Acid 10 Serum

10% Azelaic Acid in this K-beauty gem is complemented by fellow superstar actives, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. A high concentration of aloe gives it a slightly slimy texture (thought it absorbs quickly into the skin) and helps soothe the skin too.

THE INKEY LIST 10% Azelaic Acid Serum

Part of The Inkey List’s Super Solutions range, this 10% Azelaic Acid Serum is perfect for those who want to add an extremely simple formulation to their current routine, without having to deal with a bunch of other actives along with it.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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