Can You Oil Cleanse if You Have Oily, Acne-Prone Skin?

Everything you need to know about double cleansing, the counter-intuitive cleansing method that may be the answer to your clogged skin woes.

Ah, double cleansing—the Asian skincare trend that took the online world by storm a few years ago. You've probably heard the buzz, seen the influencers swear by it, and wondered, "How in the world can putting more oil on my already oily skin possibly make any sense?" Don’t worry, I was just as skeptical as you before I tried it for myself.

Am I a believer now? Truthfully—yes, and no. While I do double cleanse my oily/combination skin nightly, it’s not always with an oil cleanser. And while, I’ve finally found a a first and second cleanse that works for me, it took me a while to get here. One thing I can say for sure is that, like most things in skincare, it doesn’t work for every skin type and concern. If you’re happy with the way your skin looks right now, there’s no reason to change anything. But if you’re breaking out because of clogged pores and excess sebum production, double cleansing could be the cure-all your clogged skin needs.

Why Oil Cleansing Can Be Beneficial for Oily Skin

• It actually balances oil production This might seem counter-intuitive, but oil-based cleansers actually help reduce oil production by bonding to the oils and dirt on your skin and drawing the excess out.

• Removes excess sebum, makeup, and sunscreen—again, by bonding to the oils in your products, oil cleansing can remove these common culprits that clog pores and lead to acne.

• Gentle exfoliation Some cleansers contain gentle exfoliating ingredients like fruit enzymes or salicylic acid, which help slough off dead skin cells without stripping the skin's natural oils.

In short, the idea behind double cleansing is to thoroughly remove makeup, sunscreen, excess oil, pollutants, and other oil-based impurities that can clog pores and contribute to acne breakouts. So, in theory, it can work to clear acne caused by excess oil production in the skin. Here’s how it works.

The First Cleanse: Oil, Balm, OR Micellar Water

The first step of double cleansing usually involves an oil-based cleanser (either a cleansing oil or balm) which breaks down stubborn makeup, sunscreen, sebum, and environmental debris that water-based cleansers alone may struggle to remove. They work by attracting and dissolving oil-based impurities, making them easier to rinse away without stripping the skin.

The reason I say “usually” here is because not everyone’s skin loves oil—especially essential oils which can be sensitizing. An alternative first cleanse for more sensitive skin types is micellar water, which uses invisible concentrated molecules (micelles) that are attracted to both water and oil. Micellar water is also a safe choice for people with fungal, cystic or hormonal acne, who are likely to break out with most oil-based cleansers.

How to do a first cleanse:

• If you’re using an oil-based cleanser: Massage the oil or balm into the skin to break down the products and grime on your face, then use water to emulsify it till it turns milky (this part of so. damn. satisfying.). Finally, make sure to thoroughly—and I mean throughly—rinse it all off. It’s important to make sure that you do this step right, and that you’re not leaving oil on your face.

• If you’re using a micellar water: Simply soak a cotton pad in the micellar water and wipe across your face to see the dirt come off. If you’re wearing heavy make-up, it may take a few attempts to successfully remove everything, I’ve found it takes at least 2-3 soaked cotton pads to get everything off. Remember to be gentle on your skin, especially around the eye area.

The Skinimalist’s Top Picks

FARMACY Green Clean Cleansing Balm

When it comes to cleansing balms, I prefer to choose simple formulas that aren’t loaded with potentially skin-irritating essential oils. A great starter option is the Farmacy Green Clean Cleansing Balm–formulated with ingredients like sunflower and ginger root oils to melt stubborn makeup without stripping your skin, and anti-bacterials like turmeric and moringa extract to protect it.

HARUHARU WONDER Black Rice Moisture Deep Cleansing Oil

If cleansing oils are more your style, then you can’t go wrong with Haruharu’s Black Rice Moisture Deep Cleansing Oil. This fragrance and essential oil free cleansing oil is formulated with a blend of generally non-comedogenic oils like rice bran oil, olive oil, sunflower seed oil, and jojoba oil, amongst others.

BIODERMA Sensibio H2O Micellar Water

The OG Micellar Water that started it all, Bioderma’s Sensibio H2O is ideal for those who can’t tolerate oils on their face, or just those who don’t want to spend the time or energy needed to cleanse with an oil. Simply soak a cotton pad with micellar water and gently rub across your face like any ol’ makeup remover.

The Second Cleanse: A Water-based Cleanser

After your first cleanser, it's time for step two: the water-based cleanser. Water-based cleansers come in various forms, including foaming cleansers, gel cleansers, or cream cleansers, but in my experience, a foaming or gel cleanser works best. These tend to be more gentle, and less stripping, while effectively eliminating any oil that may have been left behind after your first cleanse—leaving your skin clean and refreshed without feeling tight or dry.

The Skinimalist’s Top Picks

B.LAB Matcha Hydrating Foam Cleanser

Whether as the second step of your cleansing routine, or as a standalone cleanser, B.LAB’s Matcha Hydrating Cleanser is a beautiful low pH cleanser that cleans your skin without irritating it. I love the light, foamy texture that turns into a foamy lather as you rub it into your skin.

HARUHARU WONDER Black Rice Moisture 5.5 Soft Cleansing Gel

If you love the Haruharu cleansing oil, chances are, you’re going to love following it up with their Soft Cleansing Gel, formulated with natural surfactants from coconut for the gentlest of cleanses. It's formulated with a pH of 5.5 to help maintain skin’s natural pH levels, so your skin won’t feel stripped after using it. Fermented rice bran and ginseng provide brightening in addition.

NATURIUM Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée

This essence-like cleanser is formulated with 3% niacinamide and works to gently dissolve makeup, oil and impurities, without drying or stripping the skin.

How to get started with double cleansing:

Now that you know how it’s done, let's talk about some tips and tricks to help you get started with a double cleansing ritual:

• Choose the right cleanser: I’ve listed some of my faves above, but listen to your skin and find what it needs. If you’re going for an oil-based first cleanse, choose cleansers formulated with non-comedogenic oils. Avoid mineral oils if you're prone to breakouts, as they can potentially clog pores.

• Gentle massage technique: When applying the oil-based cleanser, use gentle, circular motions to massage the product into your skin. This helps loosen debris and impurities without causing irritation or friction. Spend at least a minute on this oil massage to get all the gunk out from your pores.

• Rinse thoroughly: Take your time rinsing off the oil-based cleanser with lukewarm water. Ensure there is no residue left on your skin before moving on to the water-based cleanser. A lot of people who claim oil cleansing breaks them out just aren’t washing the oil off properly.

• Choose a second cleanse for your skin type: Whether it's gentle for sensitive skin, clarifying for oily skin, or hydrating for dry skin, customize your double cleansing routine to address your specific skin concerns.

• Stick to once a day: While some people might recommend double cleansing twice daily, this, in my opinion is too much. Double cleansing is best suited to your nightly routine, when there’s product and other impurities collected on your skin. Depending on how good your double cleanse is, you may not need a cleanser at all in the morning, let alone a double cleanse.

The Skinimalist’s Take: Worth a Try, but Finding the Right Products is Key

I never realised my skin could feel this clean and fresh before I started double cleansing, especially on days I’m wearing makeup or have religiously re-applied the sunscreen. However, it’s not the miracle cure-all that many people want you to think it is. It took some trial and error to find the right combination of products for my skin, and even today, depending on factors like the weather, my own hormones, and how long I spend outdoors, my skin can be prone to breakouts.

For my own skin, my rule is this: If I’m wearing makeup, I’ll use an oil-based cleanser for my first cleanse, and on days I’m not (which is most days), I just stick to micellar water.

Finding the right cleanser combo requires a deep understanding of your own skin and its sensitivities, so as always, take it low and slow to find what’s right for you.

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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