Why you don’t need a 10-step skincare routine.
Debunking the Korean beauty trend that’s spawned hundreds of new skincare launches
When I first heard about the 10-step skincare routine, I didn’t react with wonder, curiosity or unbridled enthusiasm. No, no, my first reaction was more akin to bewilderment mixed with occasional exclamations of, “Who in the world has time for that?”. Even then, I was beginning to experience the early signs of skincare fatigue, and the idea of expanding my routine to 10 different steps (day! and! night!) was more stressful than soothing.
Nevertheless, with the skincare community collectively losing their minds over this practice, I had to find out what the hype was all about. Like many of today’s skincare trends, its roots are in Korean beauty culture, which emphasizes a holistic yet gentle approach to skincare, and places a large amount of importance on achieving clear, radiant, “glass skin”.
The key word there is, “gentle”. Korean products are often formulated around single, natural ingredients like centella, aloe, or ginseng, and rarely use harsh actives. But with the 10-step routine gaining massive popularity across the world, the original intent of holistic wellness has gotten lost along the way. More and more beauty brands are jumping on this trend as a way to sell us more products, regardless of how well they pair together. So in the spirit of skinimalism, I want to step back and ask the question—is the 10-step skincare routine really necessary, or are we doing more damage than good to our skin?
What is the 10-step skincare routine?
The concept of the 10-step routine is rooted in the belief that skincare is not just about cleansing and moisturizing but involves multiple steps targeting various skin concerns. Here's a breakdown of the typical 10-step routine:
Oil Cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen, and excess oil from the skin.
Water-based foam or gel cleanser to thoroughly cleanse the skin and remove any remaining impurities.
Gentle exfoliator, often containing AHAs or BHAs, to remove dead skin cells.
Toner to balance the skin's pH levels, hydrate, and prepare the skin for better absorption of subsequent products.
Hydrating essence infused with beneficial ingredients like hyaluronic acid, centella or aloe to nourish and hydrate the skin.
Serum or ampoule containing concentrated ingredients to target specific skin concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, or aging.
Sheet mask, used weekly or bi-weekly to deliver intense hydration and nourishment.
Eye cream to hydrate and address concerns like dark circles, puffiness, or fine lines around the eyes.
Moisturizer to lock in moisture and keep the skin soft, supple, and hydrated.
Sunscreen in the morning routine, to protect the skin from UV damage and premature aging.
While each step serves a purpose and can be beneficial for the skin, the question remains whether all these steps are necessary for everyone, or if they contribute to skincare overload.
WHAT WE’RE NOT TALKING ABOUT: When this trend took off, one of the first products to create mass hysteria was the Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence from COSRX, formulated with 96% snail mucin. The novelty of the ingredient may have led to many of us overlooking a simple fact—Korean products are usually built around simple formulations using gentle botanicals like snail mucin, ginseng, green tea, bakuchiol and more. You rarely see them formulated with high percentages of retinoids, exfoliating acids or pure vitamin C. That’s one of the reasons they can layer on so many products without much irritation.
Today, many of us follow the 10-step routine in theory, but using stronger products which weren’t formulated for use alongside so many other actives and products. And that’s where the problem arises.
The problem with so many steps and products
If you’ve read any of the other posts on this blog, it may come as no surprise that I’m not a huge fan of the 10-step skincare routine. When it comes to skincare, I no longer believe that more is always better. But beyond my personal opinion, let’s take a closer look at why a 10-step routine might not be the holy grail it's made out to be:
Being spoilt for choice has led to clutter and confusion: It's easy to get caught up in the marketing hype surrounding new skincare trends, and lose sight of the fact that not every product is essential for your skin's needs. The sheer volume of options at each step of this complex routine can be overwhelming, making it challenging to discern what truly works for our skin. On top of the quantity of products, keeping track of which product does what and in what order can be confusing.
Leading us to overload our skin with products that weren’t formulated to be combined: One of my major gripes with the 10-step routine is that potential side effects of combining so many different products, usually outweighs any benefit you get from them. Each step calls for a separate, specialized product, and each product introduces a new set of ingredients on to your skin. Most of the time, these products come from multiple different brands, with varying philosophies and approaches to product formulation.
Resulting in irritation and barrier damage: Ingredients that may be well-tolerated individually can interact differently when combined, leading to redness, stinging, or allergic reactions like rashes and breakouts. This can disrupt your skin's natural balance and compromise the function of your moisture barrier, making it more susceptible to environmental stressors and other skincare issues.
PLUS, it’s costly and time-consuming: Let's face it—committing to a 10-step routine every morning and night is an investment of both, time and money. The cost of buying multiple products can easily add up, even if you’re opting for more affordable brands, and if you’re looking at luxury brands, then your skin won’t be the only thing at risk of damage. Even if you find multiple products in your price range, the time taken to apply and allow each layer to absorb properly before moving on to the next step can add unnecessary complexity and length to your skincare regimen. This can make it challenging to maintain consistency, which is key to seeing any skincare results.
Getting back to basics: The case for a skinimalist routine
Contrary to popular belief, you don't need a multitude of products to achieve healthy, glowing skin. In reality, a simplified routine allows your skin to function optimally and maintain its protective barrier, which is crucial for overall skin health. Simplifying your routine can streamline your skincare journey and help you focus on what truly matters—quality ingredients that address your specific needs.
I call this simplified philosophy, skinimalism. With a skinimalist routine, you have the opportunity to customize your skincare approach based on your skin type, concerns, and goals. Instead of following a one-size-fits-all regimen, you can tailor your routine to address specific issues like acne, hyperpigmentation, aging, or dryness. This targeted approach ensures that you're using products that are truly beneficial, while minimizing the risk of sensitivity and adverse reactions.
So, what does a simplified skincare routine look like?
The essentials:
Cleanser(s): I’m all for a good double cleanse, but only at night. You absolutely don’t need to double cleanse twice a day. In fact, I’d go as far as to say that if you have dry or sensitive skin, you may not even need to cleanse in the morning if you double cleanse at night.
Moisturizer: A great moisturizer should be able to hydrate, nourish and protect your skin, to make sure it’s functioning at optimum health. Look for humectants (e.g. Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol), emollients (e.g. ceramides, squalane), and/or calming ingredients (e.g. oats, aloe) in your moisturizer. If you have oily skin and tend to avoid moisturizers because of it, opt for a gel-based formula instead of skipping this step altogether.
Sunscreen: Protect your skin from UV damage and premature aging by applying (and re-applying) a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.
The targeted treatments:
Toners, essences, serums, ampoules: Depending on your skin concerns, you may want to add treatment products like serums, toners, essences, or, the now fashionable, ampoules to target specific concerns—but, by no means do you need ALL of them. Opt instead for ingredients and product formulations that target multiple concerns. For e.g., Vitamin C can target both hyperpigmentation and aging. Azelaic acid targets hyperpigmentation and acne. Retinol, the skincare GOAT, targets, all of the above. Depending on your skin type and concerns, you may choose to slowly add a few treatment steps to the essentials.
Occasional treatments:
Exfoliants: I would never recommend daily usage of any exfoliant, no matter how gentle it is and no matter how congested you think your skin is. IF you think you need a chemical exfoliant in your routine, you may want to consider incorporating it no more than 2-3 times a week.
Sheet masks: The sheet mask revolution has hit us hard, but sheet masks are just giving you a concentrated dose of the same ingredients you’d find in targeted treatments like serums. Personally, I don’t believe they belong in a skincare routine, but can be a nice pick-me-up after a long week or if you want an instant glow for an event.
The Skinimalist’s take: Do more with less
I started this blog with a key belief—that simpler routines, with fewer, mindfully selected products, can be more effective, so it should come as no surprise that I’m not a fan of the 10-step skincare routine. The efficacy of skincare is not determined by the number of products you use, but by the quality and suitability of those products for your skin.
Sure, a 10-step skincare routine may work for some people. But the reality is that skincare is highly individualized. Some may benefit from a simplified routine, while others will require more targeted treatments. But by glamorizing a complex routine, with multiple products, the skincare industry is forcing us to buy into the idea that more has to be more. Instead, let’s listen to our skin's needs, and focus on consistency and curation to achieve the results we want.
About The Skinimalist
Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.
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