The latest anti-aging miracle ingredient has been called everything from “botox in a bottle” to the “fountain of youth”—but does it deliver what it promises?

When I first heard about peptides, I was so relieved that there was finally a trendy new skincare ingredient whose name I could actually pronounce (I’m pretty sure I’m still not saying “hyaluronic” right). But that was before I tried to read the ingredients label of a peptide product, and found myself trying to understand why there were at least 5 different types of peptides listed, and what the hell the difference between a pentapeptide-4 and a tripeptide-7 was?!

Peptides have seen their popularity soar in the last few years, thanks to their potential anti-aging properties, and some great marketing. From drugstore brands to celebrity skincare lines, peptide-infused products have been flooding the market, with some even making wild claims about their efficacy being comparable to “botox in a bottle” (spoiler alert: it’s not!). And in my opinion, the reason they’re able to get away with this type of dubious marketing is because the world of peptides is about as transparent as the packaging for a good vitamin C product (so, not at all). The strange part is, I hardly see anyone demystifying peptides for consumers, we’ve all just come to accept that they’re great. So, if you’ve ever tried to read the label of a peptide product, and been confused by the tri-penta-hexa-poly language on it, let me try and simplify it a little.

**What are peptides?**

Peptides are **short chains of amino acids** of varying lengths, with the name indicating how many amino acids are in the chain (dipeptide=2 amino acids, tripeptide=3, pentapeptide=5…you get the picture). **Amino acids are the building blocks for proteins** in our body—including **collagen, elastin and keratin**.
That means, peptides can boost collagen production, enhance skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and protect the skin’s protective barrier.

The different types of peptides in skincare

Ever wondered why most peptide products contain a blend of different kinds of peptides? Well, what’s remarkable about peptides is their versatility—there are different types, each with its unique benefits and mechanisms of action. Whether you're targeting collagen production, antioxidant protection, or muscle contractions that lead to wrinkles, there's a peptide tailored to address your specific skincare concerns. By combining various kinds of peptides, these products allow you to target those concerns from many different angles. Topical peptides are usually classified into 4 categories:

1. Signal Peptides

The most popular and powerful (at least, in my opinion) type of peptides are signal peptides. These are the ones responsible for stimulating protein production by literally sending signals to your skin that it needs to produce more proteins like collagen and elastin. The most well-known example of signal peptides include Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) and its brand variations, Matrixyl 3000 (a synthetic blend of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7) and Matrixyl Synthe 6 (palmitoyl tripeptide-38). Growth factors—a new ingredient that’s been showing up in more bougie skincare brands—are also a type of signal peptide that work in a similar way. They usually show up on skincare labels as oligopeptides.

2. Neurotransmitter peptides

These peptides target neurotransmitters responsible for muscle contractions, making them effective in reducing expression lines and wrinkles. Because of their muscle-relaxing properties, neurotransmitter peptides are sometimes referred to as "Botox in a bottle", however take the marketing here with a giant grain of salt. They will work to slightly soften the appearance of dynamic wrinkles, providing smoother, and reduced expression lines, but they won't freeze your face in time. The most widely available neurotransmitter peptide is Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8).

3. Carrier peptides

Carrier peptides have been designed to deliver essential wound healing cofactors, like copper and magnesium, to the skin. Copper peptides in particular have become extremely popular in skincare, with their ability to stimulate collagen and elastin production in a targeted manner, while also providing some antioxidant benefits.

4. Enzyme inhibiting peptides

Again, the aptly named, enzyme inhibiting peptides, directly or indirectly inhibit enzymes that break down collagen and other proteins and interfere with that process. The most popular of these tend to be rice or soy derived.

WAIT A MINUTE: You may have noticed a glaring omission among the types of peptides we’ve talked about, and that’s, of course, collagen peptides. While stimulating collagen production is the end goal of peptide usage, the collagen molecule itself cannot penetrate our skin. So, while it does provide some level of surface hydration, it essentially acts as a moisturizer rather than a peptide. That’s also why oral collagen peptide supplements have become so popular, because there is some evidence (albeit in its infancy) that it can be absorbed by skin.

How to choose a peptide product

With so many peptide products available on the market today, it’s important to know what to look for before choosing the right one for your skin. Here are my top tips for picking your peptide:

Look at the top: Many self-proclaimed peptide products have such low concentrations of the ingredient, that their effects on your skin are going to be negligible. While percentages of peptides aren’t always revealed, you can tell a lot by reading an ingredients label, which is usually listed in order of concentration. This means the ingredients with the largest concentrations are right at the top. So, look for products with peptides listed in the top ingredients to ensure you’re getting an effective formulation of the ingredient.
Pair like a pro: Enhance the efficacy of your peptides by choosing products that combine them with other anti-aging heroes like retinoids and antioxidants for a comprehensive skincare approach. You can choose to layer these on yourself, but 1 product with multiple benefits can keep your routine simple and effective. This is especially true of copper peptides, which don’t play as well with other ingredients as your other friendly, neighbourhood peptides do.
Consistency Matters: Like any form of skincare, peptides work best with consistent use. While you may see an immediate improvement in hydration and radiance, you need to use peptides for at least 6-8 weeks before you notice a significant increase in firmness and plumpness.

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