Retinol, Retinal, Retin-A: Which one’s right for you?

They’re all touted for their anti-aging, acne, and pigmentation benefits—but what’s the difference between them, and how do you choose the right one for your skin?

In the ever-evolving world of skincare, few ingredients have stood the test of time like retinoids. If estheticians, influencers, and the amateur skintellectual can agree on one thing, it’s that retinoids work. This beloved and well-researched ingredient has long been hailed as one of the most effective ways to address a wide range of concerns—from acne and hyperpigmentation to fine lines and wrinkles. Pretty miraculous stuff, right?

But, here’s the catch. Retinoids can also be extremely irritating, they can wreak havoc on your skin’s moisture barrier if not used properly, and they don’t play well with many other skincare ingredients. More confusing is the fact that they’re available in various forms—including retinol, retinaldehyde (or retinal), and retin-A. So, before you get started with a retinoid, it’s important to understand what you’re getting into, which one to choose for your skin, and how to build a retinoid routine that won’t send your skin straight to irritation nation.

Retinoids: Why they’re, both, feared and revered

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A that have been clinically proven to work by increasing skin cell turnover, a process which slows down as we age. But reversing the cell turnover clock comes with a long list of side-effects, especially at stronger concentrations. These include: 

• Potential irritation: including dryness, redness, and peeling when first starting or using too frequently. 

• Sensitivity to sun: increasing the risk of sunburn and UV damage.

• Initial purging: Some people may experience an initial purging period when starting retinoids, seeing by increased breakouts and skin flaking as the skin adjusts to the ingredient. 

Still game? Here’s what you need to know about retinoids.

If you’ve understood the risks of a retinoid and still want to proceed to unlock their multiple benefits, then here’s what you need to know. Retinoids come in various forms, each with its own pros and cons. Choosing the right one is up to your skin's needs and tolerance level, but here’s a little more about the most-popular varieties. 

Type of Retinoid	What it does	Pros	Cons
Retinol	Retinol is the most common retinoid in OTC products. It's a comparatively milder derivative that has to first be converted to retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A) through a two-step oxidation process before it can fully be absorbed by your skin. This two-step process is what can cause a high-degree of irritation for some.	• Can be beginner-friendly at low concentrations • Widely available in a variety of formulations and price-points	• Requires a 2-step conversion to active form of retinoic acid • May cause irritation at higher concentrations
Retinaldehyde (retinal)	The increasingly popular retinaldehyde (or retinal) is a step closer to retinoic acid in terms of potency, requiring fewer conversions in the skin to become active. This makes it more effective than retinol, and interestingly, many people (myself included) actually experience less irritation from retinal than they do from retinol.	• More potent than retinol • Potentially less irritating than retinol and prescription retinoids	• Still not being widely formulated with • Limited products to choose from, usually at a high price point
Tretinoin (retin-A)	The gold standard of ant-aging, tretinoin is a prescription retinoid that is highly effective for treating acne, reducing hyperpigmentation, and improving skin texture. It requires no conversion in the skin to become active, making it extremely potent but also most likely to cause irritation, dryness, and peeling.	• Already in an active form, doesn’t need to be converted to retinoic acid • Extremely well-researched, and clinically proven to be effective against acne, aging and hyperpigmentation	• Potential for significant irritation, dryness, and peeling • Requires a prescription from a dermatologist
Adapalene	Another retinoid worth mentioning, albeit for its acne treating properties is Adapalene. Formerly prescription-only, Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that’s now available over-the-counter in some countries. Like other retinoids, it works by regulating cell turnover, but provides additional benefits of unclogging pores, and reducing inflammation.	• Already in an active form, doesn’t need to be converted to retinoic acid • Potentially less irritating than retinol and prescription retinoids • Highly effective for acne treatments	• Not many clinical studies around its anti-aging benefits • Only a handful of products to choose from

The Skinimalist’s Top Picks: OTC Retinoids

PAULA’S CHOICE 1% Retinol Treatment

Personally, with all the question marks around the efficacy of retinol, and the irritation it causes, I would just opt for a retinal product instead. But, if retinal’s unavailable to you, then my rec would be the retinol treatment from Paula’s Choice which combine’s 1% retinol (the highest strength you can get over-the-counter) with a potent blend of a Vitamin C derivative, peptides, ceramides and licorice root.

MEDIK8 Crystal Retinal

Available in 5 different strengths, from 0.01 - 0.2% retinaldehyde, Medik8’s Crystal Retinal is a great choice for beginners and experienced users alike. It’s a basic, but potent formula that claims to act 11x faster than retinol, complemented with hydrating hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and glycerin.

YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum

Another great product powered by retinaldeyhde, this super serum from Youth To The People is formulated with niacinamide, essential ceramides, and adaptogens that, they claim, can help retinal work smarter to deliver results faster.

LA ROCHE-POSAY // DIFFERIN Adapalene Gel

The 2 most commonly available over-the-counter Adapalene gels are from the brands, La Roche-Posay and Differin. Both are great for acne-prone skin, contain 0.1% Adapalene, and the ingredients are nearly identical too, so choose whatever’s more easily available near you.

THE ORDINARY Retinol in Squalane (0.2%, 0.5%, 1%)

For those who are just starting to dabble with the idea of retinol, the simplest and most affordable way to get a feel of the ingredient is with The Ordinary’s range of retinols, available at 0.2%, 0.5% and 1% concentrations, and formulated with skin smoothing squalane.

DO YOU NEED PRESCRIPTION STRENGTH?: Prescription-strength retinoids are starting to get much easier to obtain, with online dermatologists providing prescriptions after a simple virtual consult. Even so, there’s no need to jump to a prescription strength retinoid if you’re still seeing results from your OTC products. I would only recommend taking the step up to prescription strength if:

• You’ve been using OTC retinoids for a long time (read, at least 5 years), have steadily increased your concentration, and are starting to see results slow down.

• You’re in your mid-to-late 30s, and signs of aging are your primary skin concern.

• You suffer from conditions like cystic acne, which require medical intervention.

Building your retinoid routine

Once you identify the right retinoid for your skin, it’s time to start incorporating it into your routine. Retinoids can be tricky to build a routine around, so I find that keeping it simple is the way to go. Follow these skinimalist steps for a comprehensive, effective and non-irritating routine:

• STEP #1 Start with a clean canvas: Retinoids are best incorporated into your night-time skin routine, so it’s essential to start by removing every trace of dirt, oil, and impurity, without stripping your skin. I find a double cleanse works best—starting with an oil-based cleanser or micellar water, and following up with a gentle water-based cleanser. Avoid harsh cleansers with stripping ingredients like exfoliating acids, that may leave your skin feeling dry or sensitive.

• STEP #2 (normal, oily, combination skin) Retinoid right away: My preferred method of using retinoids for normal to oily skin is right after cleansing. Make sure to pat your skin completely dry (any dampness on your skin could cause the product to absorb quicker than it should), then apply a paper thin layer of the product on to your dry skin. Trust me, a little goes a long way.

• STEP #2 (dry skin) Hydrate, then retinoid: If, on the other hand, your skin is dry and prone to irritation, I’ve found that it’s best to hydrate your skin before applying a retinoid. The easiest way to do that is by using a hydrating toner or essence with soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, centella asiatica, or green tea. In extreme cases, you could even apply a layer of your moisturizer first before going in with your retinoid.

• STEP #3 Lock it all in: Finally, seal in your retinoid with a moisturizer that suits your skin type. This doesn’t have to be something extremely heavy, but it does need to leave your skin feeling nourished.

That’s it? What about my other actives?

Yes, that’s it. Personally, I think a retinoid on its own solves a lot of skincare concerns, without the need to add more actives. However, if you still want to add targeted treatments to your routine, here’s what you need to know about which ones play nice with retinoids, and which ones to watch out for.

• ❌ Vitamin C: Although there are a few products on the market that combine retinoids and vitamin C, these 2 volatile powerhouses are best left to the experts to reconcile. Even products that do combine them, usually end up using vitamin C derivates rather than the ascorbic acid form of vitamin C (like the Paula’s Choice rec above). The good news is you can still use both if you incorporate vitamin C in your morning routine and retinoids in your nighttime routine.

• ✅ Niacinamide: If you’re using a retinoid, chances are that evening out your skin tone and reducing acne are some of your concerns. Niacinamide, a powerful ingredient that also does both, is safe to pair with retinoids and can be calming to your skin.

• ❌ Exfoliating acids: Since retinoids already increase the rate of cell turnover in your skin, there’s really no need for any additional exfoliating product in your routine. AHAs like glycolic acid and BHAs like salicylic acid can be too much for your skin when combined with retinoids, heavily increasing the risk of irritation, redness, and a compromised skin barrier. If you really want to incorporate an additional exfoliant into your routine, consider using a milder exfoliant only once or twice a week, on days you’re not using a retinoid.

• ✅ Peptides: Now, here’s a match made in anti-aging heaven. Retinoids and peptides can complement each other beautifully and offer synergistic benefits for your skin. Retinoids work on a cellular level to rejuvenate and repair the skin, while peptides provide additional support by enhancing collagen production and promoting a firmer, more resilient complexion.

• 🤔 Copper peptides: Here’s where it gets tricky. While most peptides pair great with retinoids, things are a bit murkier when it comes to copper peptides. The copper content could oxidize when mixed with retinoids or vitamin C, so many experts recommend using them at different times of the day to avoid averse reactions.

• ✅ Alpha Arbutin ✅ Azelaic Acid: If peptides make the perfect anti-aging match for retinoids, then tyrosinase inhibitors, like alpha arbutin and azelaic acid make the perfect hyperpigmentation duo with retinoids. These complement your retinoid’s skin renewing abilities by targeting melanin production in your skin, leaving it brighter and more even.

How to get started with a retinoid

If your skin can handle them, retinoids can be the ultimate skinimalist ingredient. By effectively targeting so many different skincare concerns, they make it easy to replace multiple treatments with 1 powerhouse product. Here are a few things you can do to get started effectively and safely: 

• Start low and slow: Starting with retinols around 0.25% to 0.5%, or retinals at 0.1% can minimize the risk of irritation. Only use 2-3 times a week at the start, gradually increasing to every other night, before finally using it every night if you experience no irritation. 

• Apply only how much you need: Conventional wisdom says use a pea-sized amount, and they’re not wrong. A little goes a long way with retinoids, and applying too much of the product may cause excess irritation.

• Moisture, moisture, moisture: Look for gentle formulations, that also contain moisturizing ingredients to help counteract potential dryness. You can also try the sandwich method, which involves applying moisturizer before and after your retinoid. 

• Avoid pairing with other potentially irritating ingredients: Vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and Benzoyl Peroxide are all examples of ingredients that don’t pair well when used alongside a retinol. My advice is to remove these from your routine, or incorporate them into your morning routine only. 

• USE YOUR SUNSCREEN: This is non-negotiable 

About The Skinimalist

Hi, I’m Mal, a 30-something recovering skincare addict, and this is my blog. A space where I attempt to de-influence you from chasing trends and buying more skincare products you may not need.

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